If only 1 black, 1 white and 1 green or bare wire are present in the electrical outlet box you can skip past this step. Line and load will be clearly labeled on the back of the GFCI outlet and often times the load side will be covered with a piece of tape. Refer to the diagram above about wiring GFCI receptacles for additional help. Double check steps 5 and 6 and inspect the line side black conductor for damage. If the reset button will not reset make sure the line and load wires are terminated properly as described in step 5.
Also inspect the load side black and white conductors for damage and make sure the ground conductor is not coming into contact with any other screws on the receptacle. The back of these outlets are clearly marked line and load. It is important to know which is which before beginning. They usually come from the factory with a piece of tape covering the load connection points for further identification. The line terminals of a GFCI outlet connect to the power supply conductors that are connect at the circuit breaker or fuse box.
- Protect a shared-neutral with a 2-pole GFCI breaker.
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Line essentially means supply. The line wires are the incoming hot conductors. In most residential applications a Romex cable will be used which will include a bare ground , white neutral and black hot conductor.
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- Wiring A GFCI Outlet | How To Wire Line And Load Schematics.
- Shared-neutral circuits must use the same 2-pole breaker?
GFCI outlet requirements mandate that line terminals identified by color require the white line conductor neutral to connect to the silver line terminal and the black line conductor hot to connect to the brass line terminal. Load essentially means using the protected power opposed to supplying the power. Load terminals identified by color require the white load conductor or conductors to connect to the silver load terminal and the black load conductor or conductors to connect to the brass load terminal.
This is why it is imperative to put the correct wires on the correct screws. If any conductor is not correctly attached to the correct screw, the GFCI outlet will not work. These two outlets are on a circuit together, and they are the only loads on that circuit.
After wiring the new outlets up and testing them, I noticed an odd behavior. When tripping the "upstream" outlet, the "downstream" outlet does not receive any power. I assume this is because they are wired in series.follow link
GFCI Outlets, How To Wiring Diagram
I realize now that I have confused series and parallel with inline and not inline. Thank you all for clearing that up and for such great answers!
GFCI receptacles have two sets of contacts, line , and load. The Line side of the receptacle is used to power the device, while the load side is used to power other devices down the line. Because of this, if the first device trips all devices on the load side will not be powered as you have noticed. But in a setup like this, you'll be required to have a GFCI receptacle at both outlets. The devices down stream are no longer protected by the first GFCI receptacle, because they are not fed by the load side of the device.
This is what it would look like if the receptacles were wired in series.
This is the correct behavior. You only need 1 GFCI outlet per circuit assuming it's at the beginning of the line and the rest of the outlets are loads. They are correctly wired in parallel - if they were in series, you wouldn't get the correct voltage at the other outlets when there is any type of load present.
Sometimes it's a no-brainer; say your fridge is on your kitchen appliance branch circuit perfectly acceptable. If the GFCI for countertop outlets trips while you're away from home, you don't want your fridge cutting out. So, you can often keep the fridge running by strategically placing unchained GFCIs in the circuit around the fridge outlet, bypassing protection for the fridge. Same for the microwave.
BUT, most devices, such as your DW and disposer those can be on the same branch as the countertop outlets IF the home was built or last reno'ed before require GFCI protection anyway along with all countertop outlets. Code does not specifically require everything downstream of an installed GFCI outlet to be protected by that GFCI outlet, and so technically, bypassing protection is allowed. However, code does apply to individual outlets; any receptacle outlet within 6 feet of a sink, tub, toilet, shower or other "wet" area MUST be GFCI-protected either by having a GFCI outlet there, or having one upstream that has this outlet as part of its "load".
So, if bypassing GFCI at any given point would make any downstream outlet non-compliant, you'll need to either suck it up and protect the whole line, or install a second GFCI further downstream to protect the needed outlet. If you really do want it this way, it's accomplished by connecting both line AND load wires to the "line" terminals on the GFCI outlet. You will not be able to use the "load" terminals to connect wires as those will cut out when the GFCI does. The best way to do this is to wire-nut the line and load wires together hot separate from neutral of course along with a third piece of insulated wire to connect to the GFCI terminal.
The following will also work but licensed electricians may cringe; firmly screw both the line and load wires onto the line terminal I see this all the time when working with daisy-chained switches in multi-gang boxes so it can't be THAT bad.
electrical - How do I properly wire GFCI outlets in parallel? - Home Improvement Stack Exchange
This works perfectly fine if you use "EZ-Wire" GFCI outlets; they have a plate that clamps down with the screw to hold wires so you don't have to curl around the screw terminal. Most of these have holes or notches for two wires per terminal and they're very secure. GFCIs come marked with two sets of terminals. One pair is marked LINE and the other marked load. Typically, you would connect the line voltage to the Line pair, and you would run from the load pair to any downstream outlets and or lights. The load pair of terminals is already protected, so you need not use GFCIs further down the chain.
So, if the GFCI outlet is the first item in the chain, everything downstream will also be turned off in a fault situation As if the breaker tripped. What you need to do in your situation is to pigtail wires in the box before it connects to the GFCI, and to run a cable to the next outlet, which will now be unprotected unless you also use a GFCI outlet.
I believe the code says GFCI's are required within 6 feet from any sink. I go a bit further 9', with some common sense , to ensure that I can't touch the toaster with an 18 inch cord, with my 10" chef's knife while touching the sink.
Would this a wise thing to do? Would it be up to code? If so, how do I do it? Drew Spickes Drew Spickes 2 2 8.
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